Question from Customer:
If I would like to add bungee cords to the Sunny for storage, what would you suggest doing? To glue some D-rings to the skin or drill holes where the two skins meet?
Tim's Answer:
You can add holes in the vertical seam, but punch them rather than drilling, them add a bungee cord. You can buy grommet kits with an included punch, but be sure to use nickel-plated or stainless steel grommets. Brass grommets will damage the seams when they corrode. Also, be sure to punch the holes no closer to the tubes than the mid-point of the seams.
Rather than go to this trouble with the Sunny, you may want to lash your gear down using the D-rings for the seats and the grab handles as attachment points for your lashing cord. It's plenty for touring tie downs.
Tim Rosenhan runs our Customer Service operations and takes a personal
interest in making sure that all your questions are answered. Except during
our busiest times, we make sure to add all customer questions to this section.
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
Tracking Fin
Question:
The skeg... the booklet suggests to remove the skeg each time the boat is deflated. But I read from a few sources some people leave the skeg installed.
Answer:
You can keep the tracking fin on the kayak, but it makes it difficult to fold the boat compactly enough to fit into the drybag/backpack, and doing so can stress the attachment patch. This new black one-piece fin is very quick to put on or take off, unlike the older aluminum fin, so the other sources may be a bit out of date. When the boat is new, the fin is pretty "grabby" when you try to insert it into the attachment patch. Try spraying the foot of the fin with UV Tech as a lubricant. Even water helps. After a while it gets easier.
The skeg... the booklet suggests to remove the skeg each time the boat is deflated. But I read from a few sources some people leave the skeg installed.
Answer:
You can keep the tracking fin on the kayak, but it makes it difficult to fold the boat compactly enough to fit into the drybag/backpack, and doing so can stress the attachment patch. This new black one-piece fin is very quick to put on or take off, unlike the older aluminum fin, so the other sources may be a bit out of date. When the boat is new, the fin is pretty "grabby" when you try to insert it into the attachment patch. Try spraying the foot of the fin with UV Tech as a lubricant. Even water helps. After a while it gets easier.
Monday, June 14, 2010
Please Register Your Boat!
Thanks in advance for registering your inflatable kayak or canoe with us. It should only take a few minutes, it will be fun, and it will help us serve you better!
Much more important than filling out the check boxes below is telling us your story. What fun things have you done or do you intend to do with your Innova inflatable kayak? We'd like to hear it in your own words.
Much more important than filling out the check boxes below is telling us your story. What fun things have you done or do you intend to do with your Innova inflatable kayak? We'd like to hear it in your own words.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Understanding Proper Inflation
After doing some research I could not find anything indicating how to know the proper inflation. I understand the pressure should be 3psi. But how does one know when this pressure is reached?
About inflation pressure, the working pressure is 3 pounds per square inch. Every foot bellows pump that I have seen, except some specialized pumps for high-pressure Zodiac floors, can only inflate to about 3 psi (that is, unless you perform a circus act by jumping onto your foot pump from a high platform).
Therefore, inflate your boat as much as you can with your footpump, until the inflation becomes inefficient. Then reach down and squeeze the chamber with your hand to register what that correct pressure feels like. You can actually judge pressure changes within about 10% just by feel.
There are a couple of obvious conditions that will alter the original inflation pressure. Anytime the boat heats or cools from the original temperature when you inflated it, the pressure will change. So if you inflate the boat on a hot beach, and then put it into very cold water, the boat may get a little soft. This is no threat to the chambers, of course, but you may want to top off the boat when it has adjusted to the cold water. Conversely, let's say you inflate your boat on a cool, cloudy morning, then paddle for half a day, hauling out onto a hot sunny beach with no shade -- then the tubes will heat up and the pressure will increase above 3 psi. The boats are individually tested at 4.5 psi, so there is a safety margin, but I recommend venting a little air from the chambers while you are having lunch as a precautionary measure. If you take your foot pump with you, then you can top off the kayak before resuming paddling.
By the way, we do sell gauges that work like tire gauges. You stick one end in the open valve and read the pressure on a dial indicator. You get insignificant air loss with this gauge.
About inflation pressure, the working pressure is 3 pounds per square inch. Every foot bellows pump that I have seen, except some specialized pumps for high-pressure Zodiac floors, can only inflate to about 3 psi (that is, unless you perform a circus act by jumping onto your foot pump from a high platform).
Therefore, inflate your boat as much as you can with your footpump, until the inflation becomes inefficient. Then reach down and squeeze the chamber with your hand to register what that correct pressure feels like. You can actually judge pressure changes within about 10% just by feel.
There are a couple of obvious conditions that will alter the original inflation pressure. Anytime the boat heats or cools from the original temperature when you inflated it, the pressure will change. So if you inflate the boat on a hot beach, and then put it into very cold water, the boat may get a little soft. This is no threat to the chambers, of course, but you may want to top off the boat when it has adjusted to the cold water. Conversely, let's say you inflate your boat on a cool, cloudy morning, then paddle for half a day, hauling out onto a hot sunny beach with no shade -- then the tubes will heat up and the pressure will increase above 3 psi. The boats are individually tested at 4.5 psi, so there is a safety margin, but I recommend venting a little air from the chambers while you are having lunch as a precautionary measure. If you take your foot pump with you, then you can top off the kayak before resuming paddling.
By the way, we do sell gauges that work like tire gauges. You stick one end in the open valve and read the pressure on a dial indicator. You get insignificant air loss with this gauge.
Personal Tethers for Inflatable Kayaks
Would you recommend using a personal tether attached to the Sunny or Safari to prevent it from running away in windy conditions?
I think it's as like I was told in the military, "it depends on the situation and the terrain." Most paddling is nearby a shoreline in calm conditions, so a boat tether does seem unnecessary to me then. However, if I was going to paddle by myself, in an exposed crossing well away from shore, in wind, a boat tether makes sense as a backup. However, I don't recommend ever paddling alone in those conditions. I also would never have a boat tether on me in a fast river.
A boat tether is also a potential entanglement for you in the water. If you are wearing a PFD and the proper clothing for immersion, you will have time to sort out your paddle, the boat, the various leashes and tethers, and get back aboard.
The best advice I can give you is to get your kayaks into reasonably warm water and try dumping yourself out and reboarding. Try it in the calm, in a little wind, with and without the leashes. Your Sunny will be easier to re-board than your Safari. The important thing is to try your safety gear in real conditions. You might find that the length you thought would work on a leash is actually a liability, or that you guessed right.
I think it's as like I was told in the military, "it depends on the situation and the terrain." Most paddling is nearby a shoreline in calm conditions, so a boat tether does seem unnecessary to me then. However, if I was going to paddle by myself, in an exposed crossing well away from shore, in wind, a boat tether makes sense as a backup. However, I don't recommend ever paddling alone in those conditions. I also would never have a boat tether on me in a fast river.
A boat tether is also a potential entanglement for you in the water. If you are wearing a PFD and the proper clothing for immersion, you will have time to sort out your paddle, the boat, the various leashes and tethers, and get back aboard.
The best advice I can give you is to get your kayaks into reasonably warm water and try dumping yourself out and reboarding. Try it in the calm, in a little wind, with and without the leashes. Your Sunny will be easier to re-board than your Safari. The important thing is to try your safety gear in real conditions. You might find that the length you thought would work on a leash is actually a liability, or that you guessed right.
Setting Up a Safari for the First Time
I just purchased an Innova Safari. Can you offer some recommendations for setting it up?
It's important to set up the foot rest for your leg length. You want your knees slightly bent with about 6 inches of air below your knees. Then wear the thigh straps even when paddling on flat water. They will connect you to the kayak and give you more control as well as power, and your back will be better supported. Try different inflation pressures in the seat back to get the best feel.
Congratulations on your new boat! I think you will like the way it paddles. It's also quite fun in surf and rock gardens. Dressed correctly, you will feel invincible paddling the Safari in challenging water.
It's important to set up the foot rest for your leg length. You want your knees slightly bent with about 6 inches of air below your knees. Then wear the thigh straps even when paddling on flat water. They will connect you to the kayak and give you more control as well as power, and your back will be better supported. Try different inflation pressures in the seat back to get the best feel.
Congratulations on your new boat! I think you will like the way it paddles. It's also quite fun in surf and rock gardens. Dressed correctly, you will feel invincible paddling the Safari in challenging water.
Removing the Skeg
Regarding the skeg, the booklet suggests to remove the skeg each time the boat is deflated. But I read from a few sources some people leave the skeg installed.
You can keep the fin on the kayak, but it makes it difficult to fold the boat compactly enough to fit into the drybag/backpack, and doing so can stress the attachment patch. The new (2010) black one-piece fin is very quick to put on or take off, unlike the older aluminum fin, so your sources might be a bit out of date. When the boat is new, the fin is pretty "grabby" when you try to insert it into the attachment patch. Try spraying the foot of the fin with UV Tech as a lubricant. Even water helps. After a while it gets easier.
You can keep the fin on the kayak, but it makes it difficult to fold the boat compactly enough to fit into the drybag/backpack, and doing so can stress the attachment patch. The new (2010) black one-piece fin is very quick to put on or take off, unlike the older aluminum fin, so your sources might be a bit out of date. When the boat is new, the fin is pretty "grabby" when you try to insert it into the attachment patch. Try spraying the foot of the fin with UV Tech as a lubricant. Even water helps. After a while it gets easier.
Inflating Seat Chambers and Footrests
When inflating the seat chambers and the footrest I had a lot of trouble preventing air from escaping before I could plug the hole. Is there a trick to do this without having to try and re-try for a zillion times? I tried with the foot pump and it's really difficult. Once those are inflated it's really easy to inflate the main chambers.
I realize that these plugs can be vexing.
One technique is to inflate the chamber using the small nozzle, then pinch with your thumb and forefinger about an inch behind the plug hole. This will pinch off the air loss until you can get the plug in. In new boats the hole is quite tight, and I put a little saliva on the plug for a little lube (sorry to be gross, but it works).
The other technique is to inflate the chamber, keeping some pressure on the pump, then position your forefinger right next to the nozzle. You can then quickly pull out the nozzle and move your finger to cover the hole opening. Grasp the white plug with your free hand and move it right next to your covering finger and make a quick switch. (Think Indiana Jones in the first movie, when he switches a sand bag for a relic on an altar -- except a big ball won't come rolling after you.)
I realize that these plugs can be vexing.
One technique is to inflate the chamber using the small nozzle, then pinch with your thumb and forefinger about an inch behind the plug hole. This will pinch off the air loss until you can get the plug in. In new boats the hole is quite tight, and I put a little saliva on the plug for a little lube (sorry to be gross, but it works).
The other technique is to inflate the chamber, keeping some pressure on the pump, then position your forefinger right next to the nozzle. You can then quickly pull out the nozzle and move your finger to cover the hole opening. Grasp the white plug with your free hand and move it right next to your covering finger and make a quick switch. (Think Indiana Jones in the first movie, when he switches a sand bag for a relic on an altar -- except a big ball won't come rolling after you.)
Rolling the Safari
Do you know of anyone who rolls the Safari? It would be fun to learn. I saw a Japanese video of a Safari rolling but it was taken from so far away that it was almost impossible to see.
As to rolling the Safari, what I do know is that for lay-back roll techniques, it helps to let some air out of the back rest so you can really lean back.
As to rolling the Safari, what I do know is that for lay-back roll techniques, it helps to let some air out of the back rest so you can really lean back.
Paddling the Safari
I noticed quite a bit of weathercocking when paddling the Safari. Is it the hull design? I did notice that it can turn on a dime.
I was thinking about what you call weathercocking in the Safari. From what you say, I think you mean the side-to-side movement of the bow as a reaction to your paddling. Because the Safari is short -- only ten feet -- this is a natural tendency even with the fin installed. This bow-wag can be minimized by modifying your paddle stroke to have a more vertical entry and exit; less of a sweep stroke. Longer rigid kayaks have considerably longer keels and can tolerate almost any kind of paddle technique and not have bow-wag.
The Czechs who make these boats are pretty adept paddlers, and the folks with whom I have paddled use much more vertical strokes. Because of this they didn't think the Safari needed a tracking fin! Because of my touring experience I had real trouble making the Safari go in a straight line without the fin, but I later got the hang of it. The tracking fin makes a huge difference in bow-wag.
Try experimenting with some different stroke techniques. Here's a link for tweaking paddling technique: http://www.roguepaddler.com/tweak.htm
I was thinking about what you call weathercocking in the Safari. From what you say, I think you mean the side-to-side movement of the bow as a reaction to your paddling. Because the Safari is short -- only ten feet -- this is a natural tendency even with the fin installed. This bow-wag can be minimized by modifying your paddle stroke to have a more vertical entry and exit; less of a sweep stroke. Longer rigid kayaks have considerably longer keels and can tolerate almost any kind of paddle technique and not have bow-wag.
The Czechs who make these boats are pretty adept paddlers, and the folks with whom I have paddled use much more vertical strokes. Because of this they didn't think the Safari needed a tracking fin! Because of my touring experience I had real trouble making the Safari go in a straight line without the fin, but I later got the hang of it. The tracking fin makes a huge difference in bow-wag.
Try experimenting with some different stroke techniques. Here's a link for tweaking paddling technique: http://www.roguepaddler.com/tweak.htm
Paddling the Safari
I noticed quite a bit of weathercocking when paddling the Safari. Is it the hull design? I did notice that it can turn on a dime.
I was thinking about what you call weathercocking in the Safari. From what you say, I think you mean the side-to-side movement of the bow as a reaction to your paddling. Because the Safari is short -- only ten feet -- this is a natural tendency even with the fin installed. This bow-wag can be minimized by modifying your paddle stroke to have a more vertical entry and exit; less of a sweep stroke. Longer rigid kayaks have considerably longer keels and can tolerate almost any kind of paddle technique and not have bow-wag.
The Czechs who make these boats are pretty adept paddlers, and the folks with whom I have paddled use much more vertical strokes. Because of this they didn't think the Safari needed a tracking fin! Because of my touring experience I had real trouble making the Safari go in a straight line without the fin, but I later got the hang of it. The tracking fin makes a huge difference in bow-wag.
Try experimenting with some different stroke techniques. Here's a link for tweaking paddling technique: http://www.roguepaddler.com/tweak.htm
I was thinking about what you call weathercocking in the Safari. From what you say, I think you mean the side-to-side movement of the bow as a reaction to your paddling. Because the Safari is short -- only ten feet -- this is a natural tendency even with the fin installed. This bow-wag can be minimized by modifying your paddle stroke to have a more vertical entry and exit; less of a sweep stroke. Longer rigid kayaks have considerably longer keels and can tolerate almost any kind of paddle technique and not have bow-wag.
The Czechs who make these boats are pretty adept paddlers, and the folks with whom I have paddled use much more vertical strokes. Because of this they didn't think the Safari needed a tracking fin! Because of my touring experience I had real trouble making the Safari go in a straight line without the fin, but I later got the hang of it. The tracking fin makes a huge difference in bow-wag.
Try experimenting with some different stroke techniques. Here's a link for tweaking paddling technique: http://www.roguepaddler.com/tweak.htm
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Friday, March 19, 2010
Boat Repair
To request repairs on your boat, send us an email, fill out our contact form, or call us.
- Submit an issue
- Email us:
- Call us 360.707.2855
Saturday, March 13, 2010
Contact Us
If you have an issue that is not addressed in this section, we want to know. Please send us an email, fill out our contact form, or call us.
- Submit an issue
- Email us:
- Call us 360.707.2855
- We're here to answer your questions Monday through Friday, 9-5 PT. And we might also pick up the phone on weekends during our busy season.
Thursday, March 4, 2010
Weight Capacity in Safari
I bought a Safari which has a weight limit of 225. I am 245. When I fill it up with air it tips over as soon as I sit in it. If I deflate the center, water comes in but it doesn't tip. I was told that I shouldn't do that though. Any suggestions? Does being 20 pounds over the weight limit, make it that unstable?
No, the Safaris should not be that unstable -- even at your weight. I weigh 220 on a good day, and 20 more pounds should not affect the boat that much.
How about the thigh straps? Do you wear the thigh straps when you paddle? I recommend that you use these even in flat water. First adjust the foot rest so that your knees are slightly bent when your feet are on the rest, then place the straps inside your knees and tighten the straps. The thigh straps will give you much more control and stability.
No, the Safaris should not be that unstable -- even at your weight. I weigh 220 on a good day, and 20 more pounds should not affect the boat that much.
How about the thigh straps? Do you wear the thigh straps when you paddle? I recommend that you use these even in flat water. First adjust the foot rest so that your knees are slightly bent when your feet are on the rest, then place the straps inside your knees and tighten the straps. The thigh straps will give you much more control and stability.
ScotchGard
I have just purchased two Helios singles with the lite pack top material. I have also bought some UV Tech as suggested on your site. My question is - should I first waterproof the lite pak material with some form of ScotchGard and then use the UV Tech as a routine coat on all of the boat. I thought if the lite pak was stopped from taking on water then when used in saltwater the salt would not encrust on the material when on longer trips. Secondly the boat would be less heavy and the finish may not stain from sweat.
We have had good luck using ScotchGard on LitePack. We have used the outdoor, heavy-duty ScotchGard applied in two light coats to the LitePack. The treatment causes water to bead on the LitePack, thus reducing the wetting of the fabric and reducing the time needed for the fabric to dry. Of course, the ScotchGard treatment also helps resists staining. Just be careful to follow the application directions in applying two light coats and doing it outdoors (the stuff really stinks until dry).
We have had good luck using ScotchGard on LitePack. We have used the outdoor, heavy-duty ScotchGard applied in two light coats to the LitePack. The treatment causes water to bead on the LitePack, thus reducing the wetting of the fabric and reducing the time needed for the fabric to dry. Of course, the ScotchGard treatment also helps resists staining. Just be careful to follow the application directions in applying two light coats and doing it outdoors (the stuff really stinks until dry).
7-year old Helios has a leak
My 7-year old Helios has a leak on the starboard side, bottom-back (between rower & stern) at the black-oval patch which is over a seam. Can I repair this?
The material is a sythetic rubber called Nitrylon, similar to Hypalon. For the leak you are describing, and it could be either water or air at that point on the boat, I would use a bead of AquaSeal along the edge of the patch that is leaking.
AquaSeal, by McNett Corp., is a clear urethane adhesive sealant. It has the consistency of caulking and needs to air dry overnight. Clean up the area first with alcohol or acetone, let the solvent dry, then lay out the repair dead flat and place a thin bead of AquaSeal along the suspect edge.
The best way to detect the specific air leak section is to use really soapy water and look for bubbles.
To detect the specifics of a water leak, dry the outside of the kayak and fill the interior with some water. You should be able to see where it leaks out from below.
AquaSeal can be purchased from us, but also most dive shops carry this material.
The material is a sythetic rubber called Nitrylon, similar to Hypalon. For the leak you are describing, and it could be either water or air at that point on the boat, I would use a bead of AquaSeal along the edge of the patch that is leaking.
AquaSeal, by McNett Corp., is a clear urethane adhesive sealant. It has the consistency of caulking and needs to air dry overnight. Clean up the area first with alcohol or acetone, let the solvent dry, then lay out the repair dead flat and place a thin bead of AquaSeal along the suspect edge.
The best way to detect the specific air leak section is to use really soapy water and look for bubbles.
To detect the specifics of a water leak, dry the outside of the kayak and fill the interior with some water. You should be able to see where it leaks out from below.
AquaSeal can be purchased from us, but also most dive shops carry this material.
Leaky Valve
The perimeter of the center valve is leaking. The valve it self is working, but air is escaping from the junction between the valve and the material. How can this be repaired?
Your valve probably just needs to be tightened. Here's a description of how to remove the valve. Follow it, but tighten the valve by turning it clockwise.
Your valve probably just needs to be tightened. Here's a description of how to remove the valve. Follow it, but tighten the valve by turning it clockwise.
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Repair Adhesive
I just bought a Sunny kayak from you through a dealer in
Florida. Love it but one of the carrying handle patches is pulling away from the kayak. What adhesive/glue do you recommend to glue it back down?
This is a pretty easy repair using AquaSeal. Read through the repair procedure. To keep the AquaSeal from squishing out beyond the patch onto the visible surrounding fabric, use masking tape to surround the glued area on the boat hull. The AquaSeal sticks quite well if the area is cleaned first with a solvent, and it's hard to remove excess adhesive that squishes out beyond your intended area.
AquaSeal can be purchased from us, but also most dive shops carry this material.
Florida. Love it but one of the carrying handle patches is pulling away from the kayak. What adhesive/glue do you recommend to glue it back down?
This is a pretty easy repair using AquaSeal. Read through the repair procedure. To keep the AquaSeal from squishing out beyond the patch onto the visible surrounding fabric, use masking tape to surround the glued area on the boat hull. The AquaSeal sticks quite well if the area is cleaned first with a solvent, and it's hard to remove excess adhesive that squishes out beyond your intended area.
AquaSeal can be purchased from us, but also most dive shops carry this material.
What Pressure Do I Fill The Boat To?
What pressure do I fill the boat to?
The working pressure is 3.0 psi. Each boat is tested at the factory at 4.5 psi. You should inflate it to 3 psi to allow a safety margin for sun heating on the beach and the resulting increased pressure.
The working pressure is 3.0 psi. Each boat is tested at the factory at 4.5 psi. You should inflate it to 3 psi to allow a safety margin for sun heating on the beach and the resulting increased pressure.
Fin Kit for Sunny
I purchased a Sunny before it started being produced and shipped with a detachable fin standard. Is it possible to purchase a fin to attach to the older model Sunny?
We have fin kits for $50 plus shipping. The kit includes the fin, hardware, 2 fin attachment patches, and adhesive. Please call (360) 707-2855 to place your order.
We have fin kits for $50 plus shipping. The kit includes the fin, hardware, 2 fin attachment patches, and adhesive. Please call (360) 707-2855 to place your order.
Leak in older version of Helios II
I have a leak in the inside of the bow in an older version of the Helios II. It appears to be on the seam, what do you recommend for a repair job and sealant? It is an excellent kayak, that I use frequently. I am weary of using it on any lenghty trips anymore due to the leak.
The older Helios used brass grommets that, when corroded, produce copper ions that do damage to the natural rubber on the inside of the seam.
You can reseal these seams using either SeamGrip or AquaSeal by McNett. The SeamGrip is the same urethane formulation, but a little thinner than the AquaSeal.
First, remove all the old grommets by prying them out. Then open up the seams and place the SeamGrip or AquaSeal into them using a wooden matchstick or equivalent small tool. Pay attention to the seam at the grommet hole. Then cover the seam with some waxed paper and use wooden clothespins as clamps to hold the seam together. Place the pins next to one another for a uniform grip. Let the adhesive dry at least 24 hours.
Reinflate the chambers and look for edge leaks along the seams using soapy water to check for bubbles. You probably will find some seeping seams as the air will wick through the cloth. Mark the leaking edges. Deflate the chamber and use a little Seam Grip or AquaSeal on the leaking edges. Let dry overnight again. It may take a couple of tries to get all the slow leaks.
Can you recommend a grommet that doesn't corrode the rubber (aside from brass)?
We have been using a nickel-plated brass grommet that works OK. Stainless steel grommets work well, of course, but are hard to find.
I have a friend coming down from the states in November. He can source and bring the grommets down. Can you notify me of the size? Also, will i need a grommet gun?
Yes, you will need either a grommet pliers or a grommet stamp and die set.
I have taken off all of the corroded grommets from my innova, and need to replace them. Unfortunately, I never took not of the size. Can you email me the size grommet that I will need.
#2, which is about a 3/8" diameter grommet.
The older Helios used brass grommets that, when corroded, produce copper ions that do damage to the natural rubber on the inside of the seam.
You can reseal these seams using either SeamGrip or AquaSeal by McNett. The SeamGrip is the same urethane formulation, but a little thinner than the AquaSeal.
First, remove all the old grommets by prying them out. Then open up the seams and place the SeamGrip or AquaSeal into them using a wooden matchstick or equivalent small tool. Pay attention to the seam at the grommet hole. Then cover the seam with some waxed paper and use wooden clothespins as clamps to hold the seam together. Place the pins next to one another for a uniform grip. Let the adhesive dry at least 24 hours.
Reinflate the chambers and look for edge leaks along the seams using soapy water to check for bubbles. You probably will find some seeping seams as the air will wick through the cloth. Mark the leaking edges. Deflate the chamber and use a little Seam Grip or AquaSeal on the leaking edges. Let dry overnight again. It may take a couple of tries to get all the slow leaks.
Can you recommend a grommet that doesn't corrode the rubber (aside from brass)?
We have been using a nickel-plated brass grommet that works OK. Stainless steel grommets work well, of course, but are hard to find.
I have a friend coming down from the states in November. He can source and bring the grommets down. Can you notify me of the size? Also, will i need a grommet gun?
Yes, you will need either a grommet pliers or a grommet stamp and die set.
I have taken off all of the corroded grommets from my innova, and need to replace them. Unfortunately, I never took not of the size. Can you email me the size grommet that I will need.
#2, which is about a 3/8" diameter grommet.
2007 Sunny wants New Seats
I'm the owner of the old 2007 Sunny, when it was still red material (Nitrylon?) inside and out. I really *love* the new sunny's seats; it solves all the problems that I experience on my old sunny. Is there a way I can retrofit them to my kayak?
Unfortunately, the newer seats will not tie into the older boats. We have had a couple of people modify the older seats. To keep the old seats from rotating backwards when you lean back, some folks have attached D-rings on the tops of the tubes at the fore-and-aft position where the front edge of the seat bottom rests. They then have added a loop of webbing that goes through the D-ring and and then connects to the buckle at the seat back.
Unfortunately, the newer seats will not tie into the older boats. We have had a couple of people modify the older seats. To keep the old seats from rotating backwards when you lean back, some folks have attached D-rings on the tops of the tubes at the fore-and-aft position where the front edge of the seat bottom rests. They then have added a loop of webbing that goes through the D-ring and and then connects to the buckle at the seat back.
I'm interested in putting in some additional D-rings on the kayak
I'm interested in putting in some additional D-rings (like this: http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=1462) on the kayak so I have more mounting points for straps and such. Do you have any recommendation on what to use, and how to glue them on?
The NRS Hypalon D-ring patches you found should work well. I might suggest using the 1" D-rings rather than the 2". You would glue them on like you would any patch on the material.
The NRS Hypalon D-ring patches you found should work well. I might suggest using the 1" D-rings rather than the 2". You would glue them on like you would any patch on the material.
Patch Kits
My kayak when bought new didn't came with any adhesive or patch kit. How can I obtain them?
We have patch kits for $20, plus shipping. Just call Innova at (360) 707-2855.
We have patch kits for $20, plus shipping. Just call Innova at (360) 707-2855.
Abrasion Leaking Air
I've developed some abrasion on the material on one of the side tubes, in which the red nylon material is worn out and it's down to the bare fabric material underneath. It's leaking air. How do I patch it up? Someone suggested AquaSeal but I'm wondering if that's what you recommend as well.
Abrasions can be covered with AquaSeal, or the slightly thinner formulation of the same urethane material -- SeamGrip. Both are made by McNett. Clean the area first with some rubbing alcohol, then apply the urethane to the abrasion and keep it flat until it dries.
If the kayak is losing air, I would first confirm where it is leaking by inflating the chamber and then applying a warm solution of soapy water to the suspect areas. You should see bubbles appearig where the kayak loses air.
Abrasions can be covered with AquaSeal, or the slightly thinner formulation of the same urethane material -- SeamGrip. Both are made by McNett. Clean the area first with some rubbing alcohol, then apply the urethane to the abrasion and keep it flat until it dries.
If the kayak is losing air, I would first confirm where it is leaking by inflating the chamber and then applying a warm solution of soapy water to the suspect areas. You should see bubbles appearig where the kayak loses air.
Sunny Pillow
I only have one "pillow" for stuffing into the bow/stern of the boat. Are there supposed to be two?
The boat you have only has one "pillow" foot rest for the bow of the kayak when paddling double.
The boat you have only has one "pillow" foot rest for the bow of the kayak when paddling double.
Air valves are becoming hard to turn
My air valves are getting hard to turn, from the open position to the spring-loaded close position. It still works well when I get it going, however. What do I use to lubricate it?
I recommend using UV Tech on the O-ring on the valve cap. I also spray a little in the bore of the valve to lube the oronge button shaft. This stuff is water based and good for the rubber.
I recommend using UV Tech on the O-ring on the valve cap. I also spray a little in the bore of the valve to lube the oronge button shaft. This stuff is water based and good for the rubber.
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